Friday,
December 25, 1981
Tom
claimed to be too old to stay late (and I think the Ls didn’t want me
present as the party got raunchier), so we left the party at 00:30. The
Ls gave everyone a small gift, beef jerky for the guys and a
straw-decorated egg for the girls. Wow! My first Christmas gift!
We peeked into the room that has a hoist to
lift up the mail bags which are too heavy to lug up all those stairs. We walked
down all those stairs, and Tom locked the Embassy doors behind us.
There
was a man standing and smoking in the doorway of the L's apartment building
who nodded politely to us as we entered. Tom said the poor guy could go home
now that he could report on Tom’s whereabouts.
Tom
claimed he used to always open gifts on Christmas Eve, but Dot changed that
tradition, However, she had already allowed him to open a couple, so she
relented.
But
wait! It was Christmas Day! So at 1:00 we opened Christmas gifts. I had brought
the Sprüngli chocolates, hot chocolate mixes, and chocolate ornaments for the
Christmas tree. Plus double cream milk chocolates for Tom and the Swiss
cookbook for Dot. I was surprised by how many gifts I received! A half-dozen
traditionally decorated Czech eggs (shells), a ceramic salt and pepper set, and
a beautiful etched crystal cheese bell that had no clapper but instead a
crystal glass stick to ring it.
Dot
received a nice watch and a beautiful set of pots and pans. However, Tom hit
the jackpot! A Hungarian espresso coffee cup set with a pot, sugar and creamer
as well as cups and saucers. A Hungarian and Czech coffee mugs, and gorgeous
Czech crystal cordial and cognac glasses. Dot brought out Evonna’s gift which
was a spice rack with hooks on top for three mugs. The accompanying mugs were
the flowered discount variety. Later Tom hung the spice rack and hung his own
mugs from the hooks. He was also able to display mugs on the spice rack. The
wooden spice jars smelled funny and were rough on the inside.
It
was past 2:00 when we went to bed.
The fresh produce order arrived yesterday, so I had a large Valencia orange that cost $1.43 all by itself!
We left at 10:15 to go to Christmas Mass in the old town at Kostel svatého Jakuba Většího/Church of St James the Greater (built at the late 17C to early 18C, in Baroque style). We arrived early to be sure to get a seat. The pews were up on platforms and many people kept their feet up on the pews to avoid the cold floor. At 11:00 the church lights turned on and you could see all the intricate decorations: paintings, sculptures, side altars, curlicue embellishments, etc. I would not have wanted to be responsible for dusting in this church! The painting up front looked like the angel could have had a 3-dimensional leg. However, here columns were painted on the domed ceiling, and I have to admire the skill needed to make the columns look straight!
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| Christmas concert schedule |
It was nice to see a tourist attraction being used. Candles were lighted on the altar, but behnd the altar were rows of electric candles; very bright!
There was a full orchestra warming up along with the organ. Mass began and the choir and orchestra were magnificent! Although the church choir was voluntary, many of the individuals may have been professionals. Even to join a church choir there are auditions.
The “audience” was well-behaved today. Often they act like they are at a concert and talk during the Mass itself, which was in Czech. A couple children a few rows ahead who had been chattering away before Mass were now perfectly still and silent. I then realized they were asleep! Only some people participated in the kneeling, standing, showing signs of peace. I wonder if those who understood the sermon could tell it was tempered by government restrictions.
The music was fantastic, sending shivers up my spine. I was sorely tempted to turn around and look at the choir, especially when there were soloists. I loved the trumpet trills. Evonna sings with this choir, but she had a bad cold. All I could see of the crêche was the pastel-colored backdrop. During offertory, the priests came around with collection baskets and carefully watched everything that was dropped in. I gave a 10 CZK/$1 bill. Tom dropped in a 50 CZK/$5 bill and the priest silently blessed him!
We left after Communion and I had the chance to look up at the choir. They were all bundled up with their Russian fur hats. Sometimes the brass players have problems when their lips freeze.
We hurried home for a omelette brunch before I was sent off to the Obecní dům/Municipal Smetana Hall for a 14:00 ballet performance of “The Nutcracker.”
I was dropped off across the street and took the underground passageway to the theater. No one was there to take my ticket as I entered the theater. Finally found an usherette who sent me to coat check! Paid 50 Czech cents/5 cents and headed to my seat. No more ushers in sight and the lights went out. I was in row 6, but row 7 was half empty, so I slipped in. I ended up staying in the seat behind my ticketed seat for the whole performance.
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| "Nutcracker" ticket |
As the orchestra played the overture, the curtain went up on a cardboard set of Prague, with people in 18th century dress running around in a “snowstorm” of flickering lights. Then Prague was drawn up into the ceiling and a drawing room came down. The Christmas tree was a flat green cloth with some green yarn strands scattered about, and flat cardboard ornaments. Stripes on the walls were peeling. Enter the children and the familiar music began. The Nutcracker story progressed with excellent dancing by both the leads and the kids. But with shabby sets, worn and sometimes torn costumes, and old props, I was not at all surprised when the Nutcracker broke! (That was part of the story!) The mass choreography seemed old fashioned. The star couple were perfectly matched and the male lead looked familiar, as if he played on some basketball team I knew!
During the long intermission I stayed in my new seat and admired the interior of the theater done in gold and white. The seats were newly upholstered in red corduroy. I noticed Mark and Josephine at the end of row 6.
After intermission, the Nutcracker dream continued with the underwater sequence being a bit Disney-esque with cartoon fish figures projected on a screen. The hot air balloon was clever, but the cardboard balloon was obviously old. I liked the humans under a blue sheet ocean. I was close enough to hear every thump when the performers jumped, which doesn’t enhance the graceful image of ballet.
The audience did not seem too enthused throughout the performance, but at the end they clapped long and loud, and threw flowers on the stage. No standing ovation, however. All in all, it was a performance of great skill from the dancers and musicians. It was my first full-length ballet.
Retrieved my coat and went out to walk to Václavské náměstí/Wenceslas Square to the Metro station. Paid my 1 CZK/10 cent fare, and rode the escalator deep underground. After enthusing over the colorful Metro stations, I now see that they look all the same. At Leninova station, I now knew where to exit and soon arrived at the L’s apartment. They wondered who could be at the door!
There was some small plastic East German car parked in front of the apartment building that was supposed to have been “bumped into” but it looked totaled!
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| L's living room |
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| Tamiko |
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| Dot & Tom |
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| Tom & Dot |
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| Dot withTom carving the turkey |
Delicious stuffing and gravy, mashed potatoes and peas, plus cranberry sauce
and a plate of celery sticks, radishes, pickles, and olives. Also buttered
dinner rolls. Tom opened a bottle of German champagne and the cork went flying
towards one corner of the room. It was later found in another corner! We ate by
candlelight with Christmas music playing in the background. It was all so nice,
I forgot about being homesick!
Tom had to go to work the next day, and so went to bed.
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