Sunday, January 31, 1982

Delémont, St Ursanne, and Porrentruy (1/31/1982)

Sunday, January 31, 1982
Train day pass
Even though it was drizzling, I went into Biel to catch the 9:20 train to Sonceboz. I think this is the first time I took a train that traveled the tracks below Kinderspital, so we went through familiar territory past the old town, below the hospital and past Ried. Next through the Taubenlochschlucht/gorge, like Watkins Glen with an official path at the bottom! Through an industrial valley until we reached Sonceboz, where I changed to a train to Delémont. Through a tunnel, across a valley, through a tunnel/gorge, across a valley, and through a tunnel/gorge, into a valley to arrive in Delémont about 10:30. Saw some grey herons along the river in the gorges. Started walking to a church up on a hill, crossing a one lane stone bridge. Went around the Chapelle Notre-Dame du Vorbourg/Chapel of Our Lady of Vorbourg to the man-made grotto chapel. View down on Delémont.
Returned to the town to follow a main street to the Château de Delémont/Delémont castle, passing a fountain and going out through a city gate, Porte de Porrentruy (1756–59).
St Maurice Fountain
Église St Marcel/St Marcellus Church
Shrine near Église St Marcel/St Marcellus Church
Château de Delémont
Wild Man Fountain
Porrentruy Gate
Outside the gate, you could see an ancient building surrounded by ancient junk.
"Junkyard" and Red Tower
Went back into the old town to another square with Fontaine du Lion/Lion Fountain (16C Renaissance) and city gate, Porte au Loup/Wolf Gate (1775).
Wolf Gate and Lion Fountain
From there I found the city hall.
City Hall and Virgin Fountain
Walked back down the hill to the train station to catch the 11:31 train towards Porrentruy.
Two young kids were on the train and the boy had a list of stops on the way to Porrentruy. I noticed that St Ursanne was a stop between two tunnels. So as we passed through a tunnel, I prepared to get off. The tracks were above a valley with a green river. All the rivers seen today were swollen or flooding. We arrived at 11:55 and I got off on the wrong side of the train. Had to wait for the train to leave before crossing the tracks and starting downhill to the town. A hiking sign stated it would take 20 minutes, so I did it in 10 (it was downhill after all!).
St Ursanne
St Ursanne is surrounded by walls and entered only through gates.
St Peter's Gate
Passed a crumbling trough-like fountain. Crossed the bridge over the Doubs River to get a view back on the town.
Doubs Bridge
On the bridge was a statue of St John of Nepomuk, whom I first met in Prague. Having been thrown to his death off a bridge, he now gets to stand on bridges around the world, protecting against floods.
The buildings along the river had old wooden balconies. Back in the town, I found the Collegiate Church that looked more like a cathedral.
Street in St Ursanne
Collegiate Church
Main street in St Ursanne
It took me 15 minutes to go uphill to the train station, where I caught the 12:29 train to Porrentruy, arriving at 12:45. Now I went off towards the castle I could see from the train. Once in the town, I couldn’t see the castle anymore! Went to the canal where I could see it again with the symbol of Jura painted on the wall.
Château de Porrentruy
Followed the canal, but had to detour back to a street that had large old homes.
Big house
Turned right on Rue Pierre-Péquignat to cross the canal to the castle side. Found myself on a street with gates at each end of only a few blocks. The gate to the east had a clock on it.
France Gate inside
France Gate outside with clock
I tried to head up to the castle, but the streets either reached a dead end or led me away.
I can see the castle...
I heard two women talking to each other across the street from their second story windows. I ended up back in the old town at Hôtel de Ville/City Hall with a bronze statue of a boar (on the coat of arms) out front. There was a fountain in the market area. Found the Hôtel-Dieu/Hospital with its intricate wrought-iron gates.
Hôtel-Dieu/Hospital
Porrentruy main street
Back to the train station for the 14:24 train to Biel, arriving about 15:30. The town was bustling with people on their Sunday strolls.

Saturday, January 30, 1982

Geneva and Japanese Dinner (1/30/1982)

Saturday, January 30, 1982
Met Jan & Kirby at their car at 8:30 and was given the front seat. We were disappointed in the rainy weather, but it was a great view from the front seat! Stopped at the bank and gas station before heading around Lake Biel towards Geneva. Passed the vineyards where the vines were being pruned back. It stopped raining past Neuchâtel, and when we reached Lac Léman, we could see bits of blue sky. We entered Geneva on Rue Lausanne where one of our Japanese restaurant choices was located. We found the Kyoto Restaurant, but it was closed. Jan asked at a nearby gas station, and apparently they have closed permanently. When we passed the train station we heard a public address system announce “Mimosa Day,” and a flower painted yellow car went by announcing the same thing. We drove to the pedestrian shopping district and found a parking space around the block from Rue de Chantepoulet where another of the restaurants was located at No. 6. The Azma was closed for lunch, but would be open for dinner. Another restaurant was located around the corner at Rue Berne No. 1, but it turned out to be the same restaurant! Back at the car, we drove across the Mont Blanc bridge to the commercial district to get a metered parking spot. These meters are timed, and they also measure how long you stay past your paid time! We perused English books at the bookstore on Rue de Rive, then stopped at a kitchenware shop and a stationery store. Long explanations were needed to find graph paper. Jan used her French to help an Englishman get plain brown wrapping paper. After putting more money in the meter, we explored Rue du Rhône, with all its boutiques of furniture and tableware. We had lunch at a crowded McDonald’s where we had to “reserve” seats by leaving our jackets at a table that just emptied. I had my usual Big Mac, fries and a chocolate shake. Jan and Kirby shared a Big Mac, two fish sandwiches, fries, a chocolate shake, a Coke and a Sprite, followed by a coffee and hot chocolate!
We put more money in the meter and went window shopping. We kept hearing and seeing the public-address cars announcing “Mimosa Day!” We started seeing people selling or wearing little bunches of pink Mimosa flowers, in their lapels, in their hair, or just carrying them. Jan asked a vendor what this was all about, and learned they were raising money to sponsor the French inner city children who come to Switzerland for a summer holiday. We went into Grand Passage, a large department store, where men with portable public address systems announced sales or demonstrated products like frying pans or French fry slicers. In the food section, they were giving samples, including a watery cheese that tasted like cream cheese. They had many imported foods for sale, and many fruits we could not identify at the fruit stand. We found a Baskin-Robbins counter where I had a scoop of Rocky Road. The last bite held the only nut. Outside we listened to an organ grinder being “grinded” by a kid. People-watching was interesting with one of the more outstanding weirdos being seen in McDonald’s who talked to everyone in line to order and whooped at the cooks. Many Asians.
We stopped in a shoe museum, with shoes from mostly the 1920s and 30s. Button-up boots, spiraled heels, fish-shaped, flowered, etc. Then the Weber toy store, before going to put more money in the meter! Kirby and I jaywalked, or jay-ran across a square to the lakeside, while Jan legally walked around three sides of the square to reach the same bench to sit and people-watch. A black man’s first time on roller skates, men wearing wigs, women in high heels with pronated ankles. Jan pointed out the landmarks.
We returned to the car and this time drove off to find a gallery offering a Picasso exhibit. We patiently waited for a fellow to pull out of his parking place, when a woman cut right in front of Kirby trying to claim the spot. She would not back down, but Kirby stuck it out and she finally backed away. We were near the Reformation Monument and had to walk uphill to the old town. We walked up Grand Rue, past all the boutiques and antique shops. Peeked into the tiny Greenwich Village type galleries. We found the Galerie Arta which was on the first (i.e., second floor). To get there we had to walk from the street through old wooden doors into a simple modern foyer. Out into a tiny courtyard and up some steps. The door to the Galerie was wider than usual, and hinged both at the width of a regular door and the wider one. But this door wasn’t opening at all, even though the indicated hours said it should. We continued up Grand Rue and Kirby saw a Chagall inside another gallery. There were also a lot of paintings by a Jacques Deperthes. I really liked his spidery, million-branched trees, but other items in his pictures almost had a childish perspective. Jan asked the price of the Chagall: 1800 CHF/$900 or 1600 CHF/$800 without the frame. The man explained that this was a serigraph, where Chagall made the original stencils in 1959, and in 1979 he made an agreement to have the stencils used to make 700 limited prints. This print was Les Amoureux de la Tour Eiffel/Lovers of the Eiffel Tower. The shop clerk showed us other Marc Chagall items including a portrait done by another artist over a sketch done by Chagall, with a mirror image of his signature. She also showed us an unframed serigraph of the Lovers that seemed somehow brighter and with cleaner lines. She said that the artworks would soon double in price, since Chagall is in his 90s and when he passes his paintings will become more valuable. (NB. Marc Chagall died in 1985.)
We went to the Musée d'Art et d'Histoire/Art and History Museum and even though it was to close soon, we went ahead and entered through the heavy wrought-iron doors. I went to an exhibit of young peoples’ photographs with some strange but interesting items. Soon we were ushered out. We returned to the gallery with the Chagall, and learned that the signature was serigraphed as well. Continued back along Grand Rue, detoured to the L'ancien arsenal/Old Arsenal to see the mosaics guarded by cannons. We saw an unusual sunset with bright colors through bulky grey clouds.
We returned to the car and drove back across the Mont Blanc bridge to be closer to the restaurant. We thought about going to see the movie “Ragtime,” but it was being shown in French. We were the first customers at the Azma Restaurant, and were given our choice of table by the window. While Kirby sipped his Kirin beer (Jan and I had water), and we looked at the menu, an Asian couple came in, ate, and left! We started with gyoza/pan fried dumplings dipped in a ginger sauce. They were so good we ordered a second helping so that we had four each! Next yakitori/skewered grilled chicken with soy sauce (a couple pieces each). Sashimi/thin slices of raw meat or fish (we asked for tuna and had to pay a surcharge) to be dipped in a mustard sauce. Dark red with a delicate taste; no Charlie tuna here! Again a couple slices each. The entrees came with a coffee cup size bowl of rice. We shared a grilled salmon which was the size of a deck of cards and we had a couple dainty bites each, along with slices of pickled ginger. We each received two finger-sized strips of chicken teriyaki, and then we shared a tempura plate. There we got a giant shrimp, a bite of eggplant, a bite of red pepper, and a bite of white fish tempura. Other Asian groups came and went. We were left with the waiters waiting on us, so to speak. We decided to eat dessert elsewhere and got the bill for 98.80 CHF/$50. An expensive meal for about 20 bites and rice and drinks! Since I had never had raw fish, I was glad for the experience and it wasn’t bad at all; in fact, quite good!
Japanese restaurant l'addition/bill
Kirby has been to Japan and so is familiar with the Japanese dishes. Now I am jealous of him!
We went to a Mövenpick Restaurant, sort of the Howard Johnson’s of Switzerland, known for their ice cream. You had to order a meal if you sat at a table, and the counter-service tables were all filled. Waited 30 minutes for a spot and then learned you had to go to the cashier to order and pay, and then go pick up your order at the window. So Kirby went to get his Swiss Chocolate Doodle (three scoops of chocolate ice cream, meringue, a cookie, and whipped cream), and we all had Café HAG/decaffeinated coffee. We started for home at 20:30. Kirby drove to Geneva in just under 2 hours, and Jan made good time on the way back. A really nice day, because of the company!

Sunday, January 24, 1982

Rolle, Vufflens-le-Château, and Morges (1/24/1982)

Sunday, January 24, 1982
I did get up at 6:30, but when I saw it was raining I hopped back into bed!
Train day pass
Later it started drying up as I caught the 11:04 train to Geneva. I got off in Morges at 12:30, where I just managed to catch the 12:31 train. The train started up, but stopped to allow two little old ladies who came huffing and puffing to board. I got off 15 minutes later in Rolle. Walked down to the lakeside of Lac Léman to see the three-sided castle, set in a large grassy area. Started down a tree-lined avenue and started to take a photo of the castle. A lady walking by commented on the cold and I nodded. Then she said something quite complicated and I had to say “Pardon?” She repeated it while nodding at the castle. and so I nodded. She then asked where I was from, and I could use my newly learned French! “Je suis américaine!” “Ah,” she said, “American,” and she continued babbling away in English! She was Peruvian; sometimes a resident of Spain. She loved to travel and did so by working as a governess or aide to the elderly. She took photos from which she did paintings. She went to the Art Academy in Philadelphia.

Château de Rolle

Château de Rolle

Château de Rolle

Finally I was able to make my way around the castle, finding a limp rose and rose buds in the garden, and some pansies under an evergreen branch.
A rose in January
At the edge of the lake I saw the artificial island with an obelisk erected to Frédéric-César de La Harpe, a champion of Vaud independence.
de la Harpe Memorial
Leaving Château de Rolle

Took an alley to reach the main street and returned to the modern train station where the pre-fab plastic wood-like paneling was already slipping out of place. I waited with all the little old ladies for the 13:53 train towards Lausanne.
I got off at Morges at 14:10 and saw the Bière-Apples-Morges (BAM) Railway train leaving at 14:19.
Bière-Apples-Morges train
Bière-Apples-Morges new train
I boarded the brand new car, and after the conductor checked my day pass, he asked if I knew where I was going. I said in my terrible French accent, Vufflens-le-Château. He nodded and went to start the train! We climbed slowly past new housing developments. I saw a castle up on a hill, similar to the one in Rolle, which I thought might be my destination, but we were not heading in that direction. Suddenly the train slowed and I saw out the other side of the train a different-looking castle. I got off at the first stop at 14:25 and hiked down the road to the Vufflens-le-Château castle.
Château de Vufflens-le-Château
Went through a gate in a stone wall into the barren vineyards that surrounded the castle for pictures.
Château de Vufflens-le-Château
Château de Vufflens-le-Château
Walked back on the wall and up to the castle, greeting a lone duck and disturbing a coop full of chickens. The place was deserted. I was able to go into a courtyard, which it seemed the neighboring farmers used as storage. Or did someone live here?
Château de Vufflens-le-Château
I walked around the castle in the other direction and found the lean-to where the traditional cow bells are hung.
Traditional cow bells
The weather was generally nice with the blue sky and white clouds, but occasionally a dark storm cloud rolled by. Lots of wanderers/hikers.
Château de Vufflens-le-Château
Back at the train station caught the 15:20 train to Morges. There I went to their castle by the lake. It was fenced in and closed.
Château de Morges
It houses a military museum and on the grounds you could see a fighter jet and a cannon. The port was small and simple, and I guess the lake doesn’t freeze because the boats and yachts were kept in the water.
Morges port with north jetty lighthouse
Morges Grand Rue/Main Street
Morges Town Hall
Walked through town to see a fine mansion that houses another museum, then caught the 16:04 train to Lausanne.  
At some small station, an Asian man was looking in the train windows, and then he boarded the car I was in and sat across the aisle from me, crowding a young couple, when there were plenty of other seats! I studiously ignored him. As we approached Lausanne, people got up to prepare to get off. I stayed seated and so did the Asian. At the last second, I suddenly got up to get off the train, and he was just as suddenly behind me. I went to look unnecessarily at a schedule and let him walk past me and ahead. I slowly made my way to the exit stairs, only to find him waiting there! He then kept going down the stairs and towards the exit, but oh, he stopped and turned in time to see me go up to track one, and he went up the stairs to track one on the opposite side. We exited out to the street at our respective ends. I had planned on going to McDonald’s, and sure enough he was headed that way. He turned right at McDonald’s, then oh, he stopped and came back to scrutinize a sign at McDonald’s. I turned left and headed up the hill, thinking after he read the sign he would continue on his way to the right. Even though I was being cautious, I really didn’t believe I’d see him again. I turned into a side street, then peeked back around the corner, to see this guy heading up the hill toward me! Aargh! I ran behind a building, trotted past some back doors, and fortunately found stairs back to the street. Cautiously looked up and down the street, and even behind me, before slipping into McDonald’s. I was hoping to order quickly and go hide in a back corner, but had to anxiously wait a while for the food. Hopefully the guy was still on a goose chase up the hill, and I didn’t see him again. But I ate my food so fast that I felt sick when I returned to the train station for the 17:09 train back to Biel.

Saturday, January 23, 1982

Coppet, Nyon, and St Cergue (1/23/1982)

Saturday, January 23, 1982
Awoke at 6:30 and noted the sky had clear patches with stars shining through.
Train day pass
Caught the 7:48 train to Geneva, arriving at about 9:45. Did some shopping before catching the 11:00 local train towards Lausanne, getting off at Coppet 10 minutes later. The château was easily spotted across a field. Walked down a tree-lined avenue to its gates. It was closed for the winter season. The guidebook states it is built in a sober style, but apparently it is quite elegant inside.
Château de Coppet
The main street of Coppet was not very long and had a couple houses with arcades.
Coppet main street with arcades
Arcade arch into courtyard
General view of Coppet
Bought a snack bag of peanut butter-flavored puffs, like cheese puffs, but a different flavor! Caught the next local at 12:05, passing Crans with its mansion-like château sitting on a hill overlooking vineyards, and arriving in Nyon about 12:30. I walked down the pedestrian-only shopping street and saw three skiers standing in the middle of the road. They turned out to be mannequins holding ropes attached to two motorbikes. A moto-ski demonstration was being advertised.
I continued to the castle of Nyon on a hilltop overlooking the lower town.
Château de Nyon entrance
In the courtyard there is a Roman mosaic of Artemis on the wall.
Roman mosaic of Artemis
Castle courtyard
I went out the back of the castle and down the steps to the edge of Lac Léman.
Château de Nyon
I passed Caesar’s Tower with a statue of Attis.
Caesar's Tower
Returned to the castle to walk the ramparts. The walls were topped with hedges and the walk was lined with severely pruned trees.
Ramparts
Nice views of the lake. The sky was blue with fluffy white clouds, but it was still too hazy to see the Alps or Mont Blanc. At the other end of the ramparts were Roman ruins; two and a half columns!
Roman ruins
The arch over the street leading into the city was of Roman architecture.
Roman arch
Château de Nyon
In front of the train station I saw the old red wooden coaches of the Nyon-St Cergue-Morez (NSCM) railroad, which I boarded.
Nyon-St Cergue-Morez train
We left at 13:40. The heater under my seat kept my rear end warm and the draft from the window kept my face cold! As we climbed, we began seeing patches of snow, then we began weaving back and forth. Saw a farmer sweeping his barn roof. The horn of the train sounded like an electrified Alpine horn! Passed through snowy evergreen forests. Arrived about 14:26 in St Cergue at an altitude of 1047 m/3435’.
Nyon-St Cergue-Morez train
Nyon-St Cergue-Morez train 
It was cold and lightly snowing in this ski town. With a car you can go to points to see the Alps and the stands of giant Picea abies/Norway Spruce, called Les Gogants. My other option was to walk to the old castle for a view. After two minutes of climbing the road to the castle, I ran into a snowbank a meter high that blocked my path!
St Cergue village church
Walked back across town and up the other side to an area of ugly refurbished apartment buildings. The parking lots were full of Mercedes Benzes and Alfa Romeos. No Alps in sight and only a hazy view of Lac Léman.
At the station I thought I heard a real Alpine horn, but then a train came around the bend.
Train with a ski rack car
Caught the 15:30 train back to Nyon, arriving about 16:20 to catch the 16:30 to Lausanne. Arrived there at 16:55 in time for the 17:09 train to Biel.
When I got to the Personalhaus/staff residence about 18:45, there was a note from Jan & Kirby inviting me to dinner and dessert. Wow! They served a Japanese meal of Tonkatsu/pork cutlet with rice and Bulldog sauce, and a salad. Coffee ice cream with hot chocolate sauce for dessert and then we played UNO.