Schwyz and Zug (2/20/1982)

Saturday, February 20, 1982

Train day pass

Left at 7:30 to go to the post office before catching the 8:20 train to Olten, arriving shortly after 9:00. Went to the information office to see if the Luzern-Milano train stopped in Schwyz, which it did. Took the 9:28 train to Milano, getting off at Schwyz at about 10:50. On the map in the guidebook I misread Bahnhofstrasse as the Bahnhof, and marched off to the left where I expected to find the Bundesbriefarchiv/Federal Charter Archive.

I knew someone was following and they seemed awfully close on my heels, but were not passing me. Then I heard a guy say, “Links...links…links/Left…left…left.” I turned around to find a single-file line of military troops marching behind me!

When I reached the end of the town, I returned to the Bahnhof/train station to get my bearings, and learned that the Schwyz Bahnhof is actually in the town of Seewen! I started to walk right along Bahnhofstrasse the mile uphill to Schwyz! Partway along, I saw a man fumbling around in his red VW, but all the while his eyes were on me. I kept my eyes straight ahead as I passed the car, even when he knocked on his window. A minute later he drove past me, and in another minute I saw he was parked on my side of the street. I walked past the car admiring the big old apartment buildings behind wrought-iron fences. A minute later he drove past me again! I was trying to figure out how to hide or disappear so that this guy would give up trying to get my attention, when I came to a large modern building with a mural painted on the façade. The building was not identified, but the bus stop was marked “for Archive visitors only.” So I ran up the steps where a plaque next to the door indicated it was the Bundesbriefarchiv. There was even a sign telling how to open the door! I went to the desk and rang a bell to bring out the curator who was followed by a toddler. He unlocked the ticket machine to sell me a 1 CHF/50 cent ticket, then had to unhook the rope draped across the stairs.

Bundesbriefarchiv ticket

I climbed the stairs past some old white cross flags to the metal gate opening into a large modern room. The lights then came on in that room so I could peruse the historical documents of Swiss independence and confederation.

Bundesbriefarchiv guide pages 1 & 4

Bundesbriefarchiv guide pages 2 & 3

The paper documents appeared in better shape than the flags hanging all around the room. The documents were in old German writing and had “seals” tied on with colorful braided string. The oldest original was dated August 1, 1291, the day the Swiss now celebrate as National Day. Other documents were for when other cantons joined the confederation. Still others were letters or declarations of freedom. I left at 11:30 when they were closing, and no red VW was in sight.

Continued into Schwyz to see the Rathaus/Town Hall (1642-45) with paintings (1891) on two sides.

Rathaus/Town Hall

Rathaus/Town Hall

Someone had draped a purple dress over the statue of the fountain in the square. There was a modern sculpture built into a tree.

Sculpture, fountain, St Martin's Church

On the other side of the square was the Baroque Martinskirche/St Martin’s Church (1774 by Jakob and Johann Singer). At the bus depot, I caught a bus for .40 CHF/20 cents half fare, to the train station in Seewen.

Schwyz bus ticket

The Schwyz station is under construction and is now housed in temporary sheds. One shed was placed on a steel girder frame over another to make a 2-story shed. Took the 12:18 train to Arth-Goldau, arriving at 12:30, then taking the 12:42 train towards Zürich. I got off in Zug at about 13:00. According to the guidebook, I should go out the front of the station to the lake. It was too hazy to see where the lake was, so I went out of the station and walked perpendicular to the tracks, only to find myself in an industrial area. Returned to the station and went out the other side and ahead of me there was a hill! Returned to the station once again and realized it was triangular, so I went out the third side, which was the front that faced the lake! A few blocks later I was at the lakefront of Zugersee/Lake Zug. Although cold and gray, it was still pleasant to walk along the Quai. A couple was feeding the multitudes of duck and swans. At the so-called Fasanen Garten/Pheasant Garden, there was a small building surrounded by wire cages with parrots and peacocks, including a white peacock.
Followed Fischmarkt into the old town.

Fischmarkt

There were oriel windows and shutters galore, and the shops below were now exclusive boutiques. The Zytturm/Clock Tower (1557) had a roof tiled in blue and white.

Zytturm/Clock Tower

Walked up Ober Altstadtgasse and down Unter Altstadtgasse, before going under the clock tower to Kolinplatz.

Ober Altstadtgasse

Unter Altstadtgasse fountain

Kolin fountain and Stadthaus/City Council

Here was a fountain with a statue of Peter Kolin, a local hero renowned for dying to save his standard/flag in 1422. The Stadthaus/City Council (1505) had a painted façade. Made my way to the Kirche St Oswald/St Oswald’s Church (1478 Gothic). Across from the church was a walled-in building that looked newly redone, with dolphins on the corners of the roof, like the town hall in Schwyz. I thought these dolphins/fish waterspouts were Japanese!

Burg Museum

This building was the Burg Museum/Castle Museum (part of which is the oldest building in Zug). Followed the curving Kirchenstrasse to the massive Pulverturm/ Powder Tower (1522-32) next to the Zeughaus/Arsenal (1896-97 by Dagobert Keiser).

Pulverturm

Backtracked a bit on Kirchenstrasse and beared right to Huwilerturm (16C), another tower and then followed the walls to the Kapuzinerturm (1526).

Kapuzinerturm

As I returned to the station, I noticed a lot of people, especially children, were dressed in costumes and/or had their faces made up for Fastnacht or Mardi Gras celebrations. Stopped at a confiserie for a slice of Kirschtorte/cherry cake. Zug is known for their cherries, and this layer cake of nut-meringue, sponge cake, and butter cream that is flavored with Kirschwasser/cherry brandy, as well as for the Zuger Kirsch/cherry liqueur.

Caught the 14:38 train to Bern. Since it was snowing and getting dark, I decided to head home, Arrived in Bern at 16:35, tried calling Rosie, ate at McDonald’s, and used the restrooms at the train station. I had a choice of .50 or .20 CHF toilets! Wonder what the difference was? Took the 17:41 train to Biel, arriving at 18:45. Found the Kirschtorte had leaked all over my prints camera. Uh-oh!