Parents' Visit: Strasbourg (8/7/1983)

Sunday, August 7, 1983

Walked through the empty streets of Biel to the train station, and Mom and Dad were already there at 8:10, having had breakfast in the station's Buffet-Snack, since the hotel breakfast opened later on weekends. I went to buy train tickets for Belfort, France; a half-price First Class ticket for me,

Biel to Belfort train ticket cover

Biel to Belfort train ticket

and First Class tickets for my parents from Delle to Belfort, since their passes were only for Switzerland. I had to wait as they typed up the international tickets for us. The French tickets cost 5.80 CHF/$3 each, and mine cost 20.30 CHF/$10. We caught the 8:27 train to Basel with one car going directly to Belfort. We passed Moutier going into the jagged rock gorge, into the Jura to Delémont.

Moutier Gorge (GJT)

There we were disconnected from the Basel train and went on our own way to Porrentruy to Delle. The customs inspectors came to ask if we had anything to declare. One pair of officials was a big fat man, who stamped our passports, with a little thin man.

We arrived in Belfort where I went to buy tickets to Strasbourg for 62 FRF/$8.

Belfort to Strasbourg train ticket

Then we walked to the center of Belfort, following the bus route. We saw a few people carrying the requisite baguettes of bread. We came to the bridge to view the old town below, then followed the new pedestrian mall back to the train station. The mall had old shops and some boarded up ones. Back at the station we caught the Turbotrain to Strasbourg. When it first dieseled into the station, it sounded like being at a U.S. train station, plus there was a heat wave and smoke. We managed to find seats next to the bar section. We all dozed as we traveled through relatively flat country with gravel piles for mountains. Arrived in Strasbourg about 11:30 and went to a newspaper/book stand to look for a map. None. We found a wall map of the city in the station and roughly figured how to get to the cathedral. Mom and I spent 2 FRF/25 cents to use the station restroom.

Beginning of a pedestrian street (GJT)

We then hurried to the cathedral, hoping to see the Astronomical Clock that “performs” at noon. I got turned around at a large square and headed off in the wrong direction. After going out of our way a few blocks, we righted ourselves by spotting the cathedral spire.

Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Strasbourg spire (GJT)

As we got closer, we heard the church bells strike noon. We figured we had missed the Astronomical Clock, and Dad said it was probably covered by scaffolding anyway! Sure enough, when we arrived at the cathedral, the entire façade was covered with scaffolding! We stopped at a gift shop to buy a map for 16 FRF/$2, then decided to enter the cathedral to see if there was a Mass. The front door was locked. We rounded to the side door to see people pouring out. We tried to enter, and were told the cathedral was closing until 14:00. That’s when I saw a sign on the gate saying the Astronomical Clock was through the next door to the right. There was a crowd of people under a clock, but we didn’t see any apostles or crows.

Is this the Astronomical Clock? (GJT)

Then I saw a sign saying the clock performed at 12:31! So we had time to see it. Next I spotted a sign pointing to the clock ticket booth, and then I realized the crowd was there to purchase tickets to go inside to see this clock! I joined the crowd in hopes of getting tickets. I was squashed, and the press of people took me along without any effort on my part (except to make sure to keep breathing!). There was even an iron railing to get by, but the crowd maneuvered me neatly around it. I managed to get three tickets for 3 FRF/40 cents each.

Astronomical Clock ticket

We entered the church to see an enormous clock to the right of the chancel. We were towards the front craning our necks to look up, and decided to go towards one side for a better view of the whole face of the clock. The “noon” performance was accompanied by a tape recording in French and German that explained that a cupid/child comes out to sound the quarter hour, followed by a young man, then a warrior, and finally an old man for each of the other quarters. Next comes a skeleton, "Death," to ring the hours (12 times). Above, Christ sits and his hand goes up and down in benediction to each of the twelve Apostles as they circled by and turned to face Christ. With every fourth Apostle, a rooster up on the left lifted his wings twice, then leaned back to crow. Thus you have the three crows of the cock heard after St Peter’s three denials of knowing Christ. People laughed at the cock’s crow, but were perfectly silent for the ringing of the hour. The clock itself also shows the seasons, the signs of the zodiac and the phases of the moon.

This is the Astronomical Clock! (GJT)

We then went through the cathedral to see the stained glass windows, stone tracery of the windows, the organ up on the left side, a carved pulpit, and many statues. The church is mainly Gothic, but the chancel has touches of Romanesque.

Chancel stained glass (GJT)

Stained glass windows (GJT)

We walked out and down to cross the canal, and then cross back on another bridge.

Canalized Ill River, southern branch (GJT)

Tour boat (GJT)

There were a lot of Africans around selling leather belts, hats, purses, and beaded necklaces. The old town was full of half-timbered buildings, wrought-iron signs, and flowers.

Half-timbered buildings on Rue de Maroquin (GJT)

We returned to Cathedral Square to buy postcards.

Cathedral Square with Maison Kammerzell on the right (GJT)

Maison Kammerzell (GJT)

We went by the Maison Kammerzell with mullioned windows to go to Place Gutenberg with its statue of the man who did many of his printing experiments in Strasbourg.

Statue of Johannes Gutenberg with
parchment inscribed "Et la lumière fut/
And behold, there was light" (GJT)

Tourist motorized vehicle (GJT)

We sat on a bench for a picnic lunch of tuna fish sandwiches and chocolate chip cookies with chocolate milk. The square was full of the African street vendors.

Next we headed to the area with a series of canals called la Petite France. It was for pedestrians only and was really neat with the waterways and medieval buildings.

Quartier des Tanneurs/Tanners District

Lock on canalized Ill River north branch (GJT)

The locks were working. We made our way over to the bridge connecting the strips of land that each had a tower (four of them).

Three of the towers (GJT)

We passed a few Monet boats (square-ended rowboats) to a fortified bridge over the entrance to the canals. We paid 2.7 FRF/35 cents each to enter and climb this fortification, called the Vauban Barrage, for a nice sunny view on la Petite France with Strasbourg behind it.

Vauban Barrage ticket

A tape-recorded explanation was being given in German, so I learned that the four towers were part of the original defense system, and the canals were named for the mills they led to. Louis XIV commissioned the engineer Vauban to further fortify the area, so he built the barrage/dam/weir. A prison was pointed out to the left, and each of the church spires was named. When the tape ended, a man came to remove the tape and lock up the recorder/player. Then he and a large group returned to a “Viewmobile.” This viewmobile took people on tours of the city, with recorded explanations.

View from the Vauban Barrage

View from the Vauban Barrage

We crossed the barrage and walked through a market area with a newly built cover of wood with a red tile roof. We followed the river towards the train station, but then took a right to follow the proposed Metro route, crossing back over the river and going along Rue du Vieux Marché aux Vins to Place de l’Homme de Fer.

Trompe l'oeil window frames (GJT)

We passed a furniture store of an E Jacquemin!

Jacquemin, perhaps an ancestor (GJT)

We turned right to Place Kleber, then continued to Grand Rue, turning right to head back to the river.

L'Aubette in Place Kleber

Rue des Chandelles at Rue du Saumon (GJT)

We still had time before our train, so walked back to the old town, passed the cathedral to the other branch of the river. As we headed back towards the station, we saw a McDonald’s and stopped for drinks, plus Dad had an ice cream sundae. Along the river we saw a bum sleeping on a doorstep. Back at the station, I bought tickets to Bâle/Basel for 60 FRF/$7.80.

Strasbourg to Basel train ticket

The girl gave me only two tickets, then had to check those two before giving me all three. We had to validate the tickets as we entered the platform. We caught the 17:02 Iris InterCity which is the train Mom and Dad took from Luxembourg when they arrived. The train was crowded with people and luggage, mostly labeled Icelandair, the airline they used! When two women went to the train restaurant, they let me and Mom sit in their seats. Soon after they returned, several people got off at Mulhouse. Mom and Dad got seats, and I sat on the armrest. We arrived in Basel at 18:30, and I got a half-price ticket to Biel for 14 CHF/$7. We bought drinks, and caught the 19:15 train to Biel. We had dinner of paté with crackers, cheese, and cookies. Arrived in Biel at 20:26.

Monday, August 8, 1983

I prayed for good weather, and got it! Mom and Dad went to Luzern and Rigi, and Zürich today while I worked.

Tuesday, August 9, 1983

Hazy today. Mom and Dad went to Neuchâtel to try out all the buses. I worked again, but left at 17:00 to go grocery shopping. I cooked a Rösti with bacon which made it very greasy. I steamed fresh broccoli, and breaded veal, but put those in the refrigerator. Since it seemed Mom and Dad missed the 18:40 bus to the hospital, I went downstairs to iron. I heard the phone ring and ran up all the stairs to answer it. It was for another floor, so I had to transfer the call. I went back down to iron one more pair of pants. Somewhere I must have passed Mom and Dad, who were waiting for me when I was done. I sautéed the veal, and we ate, and drank nearly 2 liters /half gallon of milk. My parents left a lot of stuff with me before we left to go walk through the lighted old town to the hotel. Mom and Dad were to check out the next morning, so I went to pay the bill (855 CHF/$427 for nine nights) with my Visa card. Mom packed a suitcase for me to take to the dorm, as they would only take one suitcase for the next leg of the trip. When I got to Mühlebrücke, I decided to catch the next bus instead of walking. Had to buy a 90 Rappen/45 cent ticket from the machine that had no change.

Biel bus ticket

Wednesday, August 10, 1983

After aerobics, I went home with Marsha Cotter to see her beautiful room in Ruth Derendinger’s apartment. We had dinner of a great cold salad with chicken, grapes, mandarin oranges, and walnuts in mayonnaise, and then a green bean, onion, and cucumber in vinegar salad. Also potato chips, and I had chocolate milk. Plus a dessert of brownies à la mode! I saw Marsha’s great pictures from our Italy trip. She drove me home in the rain by 22:00.