Zürich (7/25/1981)

Saturday, July 25, 1981

I planned to go to Luzern, but upon arrival at the train station, the schedule convinced me to go to Zürich, instead. Thought I asked for a round trip ticket and paid 23 CHF/$11.50. In leaving Biel, you could see the Kinderspital/Children's Hospital up on the hill. I saw many community garden plots, one with a section of playground equipment among the proliferation of flowers and vegetables. It seemed all the tomato plants were sheltered under plastic sheets. Most plots had little garden huts with porches. The Swiss chocolate brown cows were lying down. Yes, it was raining. Saw a few horses and sheep. In and near the towns we passed, the area was very industrialized along the railroad track. The two-lane highway that sometimes ran parallel to the railroad had an occasional small billboard - each one with crossed out alcoholic beverages and the message “Nein, danke! Ich fahre!” ("No, thanks. I’m driving!") Passed through the wide and fairly flat valley of Zürich with mountains closer on the north side and in a cloud cover to the south.

In Zürich, I walked down Bahnhofstrasse/Train Station Street, the main shopping street, checking out souvenir prices. I saw a lot of fireworks for sale, as I did in Bern last week. Now I could see that the fireworks are for the August 1st celebration. Now all I have to do is figure out what is so special about August 1st!

Turned down the flag-decorated Linth-Eschergasse/Linth-Escher Lane to the Jemoli department store. I also have been stopping at bookstores to look for something decent to read in English or German. I don’t want to read Gothic novels or re-read classics in German. As I left Jemoli, I heard a deep lowing sort of sound (yes, like a cow!) and noticed people gathering in front of the store and looking up. Three Alpine horn musicians were standing on the store’s overhang. They finished their two selections and then climbed back through a window!

Jemoli Alpine horn musicians

View towards Fraumünster
with the twin towers of Grossmünster to the left

Farther along Bahnhofstrasse, I turned into the older section of town with narrow cobblestone streets that wound up and down. The bay windows were painted and lettered as one might imagine they had been originally. These stores seemed rather exclusive, mostly jewelry boutiques.

Found myself at the Limmat River with water flowing swiftly from the lake and huge swans gliding along. Walked around Fraumünster/Lady’s Cathedral and back to Bahnhofstrasse. Along this end of the street were some very exclusive clothing stores. I rounded the corner into a park, where a flea market was being held despite the drizzle. A lot of old stuff that must have been antiques according to the prices. A beer stein for 58 CHF/$29 and cow bells with worn leather straps for 85-230 CHGF/$42.50-115! I didn’t find any bargains and didn’t have the nerve to try to barter. There was a group of Asians who were really avid tech people or professionals. One had a TV camera while another carried sound equipment and a 35mm camera with all kinds of gadgets. Two women were rummaging through a hippie’s suitcase while the camera man zoomed in for close-ups. Everyone seemed to take them in stride.

Walking back along Bahnhofstrasse, I made the customary stop in the Sprüngli confectionary for chocolates. Went along Augustinergasse/Augustine's Lane and to the Lindenhof/Linden Court, a shady park with a couple of sidewalk chess boards (3mx3m/10'x10').

Augustinergasse/lane

Augustinergasse/lane

View from Lindenhof

Bahnhofstrasse

I wandered through another park where I saw what looked like a nun tangled in a swing, and a fat bearded man salaaming on a bench. He was facing northeast, rather than southeast, the direction of Mecca.

At the Bahnhof/train station shopping arcades, I checked out the huge vending machine where you can watch your article being retrieved and shuttled to you. Tried some Blätterteig-Salzstengeli/Puff pastry salt sticks. Delicious! I bought a Time magazine with the idea that I would subscribe, and this magazine did include a card for 50% off a subscription. That still makes it 80 cents per issue, but at least I will be guaranteed to receive mail!

The sun had come out, so I went to the Landesmuseum/Swiss National Museum. The inner courtyard was covered entirely by scaffolding.

Landesmuseum

Landesmuseum

It is located in a complex built in 1898 in the historicist style by Gustav Gull in the form of the French Renaissance city chateaus.
On the train back to Biel I discovered I only had a one-way ticket, and had to shell out another 23 CHF/$11.50. Fortunately, you can buy tickets from the conductor.

Walking back home in Biel, I could hear the church bell ringing. They must have fixed it, because it had been silent since Tuesday.

Sunday, July 26, 1981

I thought I was going to be late for the 10:00 Mass in German at the Catholic Church, St Maria Immaculata/Mary Immaculate. But I was early for the 10:30 Mass. The inside of the church was small and simple even though the outer building seems much larger. A priest came out and went to the confessional, where he remained throughout Mass. Another priest came out and began the Mass, in Italian! I was rather surprised, but figured I could understand more in Italian than I would in German. Sitting right in front of me were the two ladies from the hospital Wäscherei/laundry, whom I thought spoke only French! I hope they don’t now assume I speak Italian, because I’m not sure I could understand the linen set-up in Italian either!

There were three sets of prayer books, in French, German, and Italian. I’d still like to try Mass in German, but at least I have this option. People came in during the middle and end of Mass, talking. Some went to confession during Mass. Some people were well-dressed and others dressed casually.

While looking out the window of my room, I can watch the goings-on in the hospital parking lot. The past two Sundays there is a man who parks in the lot and smokes while looking up at the Personalhaus/staff residence. He stays about an hour then drives off. (???)

Tuesday, July 28, 1981

View East from Kinderspital balcony

View ESE from Kinderspital balcony

View Southeast from Kinderspital balcony

View South from Kinderspital balcony

View Southwest from Kinderspital balcony

View West from Kinderspital balcony

One of my usual unusual trips to the store: I went to the grocery store, but realized I forgot my money. Went ahead into the Altstadt/old town where there was a Philippe Robert exposition. Apparently he was an artist and botanist, or at least painted flora. A latter day Swiss Audubon. There is a Robert room in the basement of the Kinderspital/children's Hospital, with four walls and one hall covered with pastoral paintings. I don’t know if it is the same Robert or a relation.

On my way home, two girls asked for directions in Swiss-German. Once they spoke high-German, I was able to point them on their way.

Okay, so they don’t technically speak German here in Switzerland! They speak one of many Swiss-German dialects. Each valley must have its own dialect! Because Biel-Bienne is near Bern, we have Bärndütsch. To me, it sounds like a hick version of German, with words said sloppily and with the ends of words dropped. Fortunately, all the parents of the my kids can speak high-German, and most of my kids are babies or too mentally impaired to care about my German. (I also work with all the Italian-speaking families.)

Mamma mia! This evening I had a really clear view of snow-capped mountains. One peak almost looks like the Matterhorn!

View from Personalhaus of the Alps

Wednesday, July 29, 1981

Spent an interesting evening with Doris B, the special education person who seems to be more of an arts and crafts therapist! She is very organized.

I people-watched while waiting for Doris at the train station. The man arguing with himself, the two old men having a conversation but each following his own line of thought, the group of backpackers having butter and marmalade on slices of bread, the dark man with his two bleach-blonde kids, the lady in the tiger-stripe shift and gold heels, the guys in shorts and canvas shoes…

By 20:15 Doris arrived by bicycle and parked it at the station. We walked along the canal to the waterfront of Bielersee/Lake Biel. Doris pointed out the toilettes “that empty into the river.” She then explained we were walking “on” the lake, on reclaimed land. They built a school two years ago on the reclaimed land. The “beach” was unexpectedly a manicured grass lawn with benches and an unobtrusive snack bar under some trees. At the water’s edge there is a stone wall down into the water, with stairs leading into the water spaced out at intervals. Apparently most people just jump in along with the numerous swans! Doris saw a couple young fellows she knew, and they said the water was very cold. We passed couples sitting on the benches, Frisbee players, and rollerskaters. There was an area where you could rent rowboats, pedalboats, or canoes.

We doffed our sandals to step into the water that was indeed very cold. Although we wore bathing suits under our clothes, we didn’t do any bathing today! We sat on a bench to go through some maps and brochures about Biel and Bielersee that Doris brought. As the sun set, we walked along the waterfront past the tourist boats with red and yellow lights strung up.

We tried to go to the Odeon Café, but it was closed for the holidays. Had a drink of Schweppes mit Zitrone/quinine water with a slice of lemon at the café across from Migros. After walking Doris to the train station to get her bicycle, I walked back home through the nicely lighted old town. The sky was clear and you could see the Big Dipper. A very nice evening.

Thursday, July 30, 1981

Went to the Post Office with Hosson M, the Palestinian friend of Helen S, the CP Station Special Education teacher. Hosson, who has athetoid cerebral palsy, can speak English quite well. She wants to learn German. Arabic is her native language. She says her family is in Jordan, but she is not sure if she lives in Jordan or not. There must be a miscommunication somewhere. Helen went to Jerusalem this summer to help at a home for the handicapped, and I believe that is where she met Hosson.
I later learned that Hosson was abandoned by her parents and lives in a home in Jerusalem. She works in a kindergarten for handicapped children. She considers herself to live in Palestine and hopes one day it will be a nation. Helen started out as a kindergarten teacher. She then joined a Peace Corps type organization and worked in several countries. She worked for a couple years in the administration of this organization before studying to become a special education teacher. She took a job in the Arab part of Jerusalem where she stayed nearly ten years and where she met Hosson. A year ago she returned to Switzerland and only several months ago began working at Kinderspital Wildermeth.

We met Helen at Migros. Later when I walked home, I met the two laundry ladies. They explained something loudly to me in a language I did not recognize. They managed a couple words in German, so I think they are off on vacation, or somehow they are finished! I seem to keep bumping into this pair, who apparently live(d) in the Personalhaus/staff residence.

Found another four-leaf clover.