Basel (11/14/1982)

Sunday, November 14, 1982 

Train day pass

Although the sky was clear with a few fluffy clouds above, the horizon was lined with clouds, so since the weatherman insisted it was going to rain, we went ahead to catch the 9:51 train to Basel. The train was from Germany, heading to Hamburg, and we sat in coach with the seats facing each other over a table. Everything seemed bigger and brighter through the huge windows, and the seats even reclined! In the Jura, we could see the second layer of mountain tops with snow on them. After going through the tunnel to Moutier, it was cloudier, but it was cold, crisp and fairly sunny in Basel when we arrived about 11:00. We bought an 11-trip tram ticket for 6 CHF/$3 at the bus/tram stop and boarded the #2 tram to Kirschgarten. We walked the one block to the large stone mansion housing the Kirschgarten Museum where we had to hang up our backpacks in the garderobe. There was no admission fee although they asked for donations. Many of the rooms were closed, as was the pavilion in the “backyard.” The ground floors were set up as a ceramics museum, including porcelain stoves/heaters. There was more porcelain/fine china/ceramics in the basement, some wrought-iron railings, signs, etc. as well as old trunks and huge wine barrels, one holding 10,000 liters/2642 gallons! The first floor (U.S. second floor) had period rooms. The boudoir contained a porcelain bowl “toilet,” and there were a couple salons and a music room. One room was lined with Aubusson tapestries. The next floor was closed, so we missed the toy collection and kitchen. We left the museum at 11:45, and all the museums would close at noon. Looking down Steinenbergstrasse, we could see a McDonald’s. We walked down Freiestrasse and down alleys to our left we could see a large church. It turned out to be Barfüsserkirche/Barefoot Church, now a historical museum. We followed a curving cobblestoned street and came upon a dark red double-towered Münster/cathedral.

Münster/cathedral

Münster/cathedral spires

It was on a large square surrounded by neat old buildings. Near the alley, we saw an older timbered building.

Timbered building

The government buildings near it had large wooden doors. Marsha’s guidebook gave us the particulars of the Münster’s carved stone façade, pointing out the snakes and toads on the back of the dallying prince, the church foundry, and the huge statues of St George (lancing a small dragon) and St Martin. We walked around the left side to the St Gall portal to see Christ in Judgment, the Evangelists, virgins on the lintel, and the wheel of fortune around the rose window. In the back, arches ended over carved semi-capitals called amusing modillions/brackets. Here in the rear was a terrace, the only remains of the bishop’s palace, overlooking the Rhein River, and the more industrialized areas of Basel across it. We continued around to the double cloister full of tombstones from over five centuries. We confess we had difficulty with some of the Roman numeral dates!

Returned to Barfüsserplatz, and in trying to figure out which tram to take, we missed two of them. Fortunately, they came frequently and we had options, so we caught the next #4 tram on the circular route. Once on the tram I discovered you were supposed to punch the ticket at the stop! We rode up Steinenbergstrasse, past the modern theater complex and its fountain of twirling and revolving pieces of wrought-iron. Passed the train station and the large plain Markthalle/Market Hall. We got off at the next stop and walked down to the Zoologischer Garten/zoo. We were surprised to see the 7 CHF/$3.50 entrance fee, but went ahead and paid.

Zoo ticket

First a modern building with lizards and snakes, fishes and penguins. Next bears, flamingoes, zebras, an aviary, elephants, a hippo, and free roaming peacocks. Also leopards and a lion posing on a fallen tree. A tiger turned his hind end towards us and squirted, barely missing us! Monkeys, antelopes, mountain goats, bison, camels, goats, rhinoceroses, giraffes, and more bears. After having seen the entire zoo, we sat on a bench to have our sandwiches, with a couple begging ducks in attendance. We took the #1 tram back to Barfüsserplatz and entered the historical museum in the bright and airy church. It was a free day today! Finely carved choir stalls and period furniture. Over the windows hung stained glass. Down the two sides were old fountain statues. There was a military tent, drums, glass cases containing the tools of various craftsmen. There were shades pulled down where tapestries used to hang (they have been removed for restoration). There was a huge collection of religious art, paintings and sculptures, in the chancel, and bits of artwork in the choir area. There were a few church treasures, but the main treasures were in the sacristy, including a reliquary bust of St Ursula containing her relics and those of the 10,000 virgins massacred with her by the Huns. We climbed to the gallery overlooking the chancel to look at the chancel to one side and the nave to the other. Went down to the crypt to see several period rooms, a couple with fantastic woodwork all over (including the ceilings). There was a large coin collection, more craftsmen artifacts, arms and uniforms, and I found a couple articles belonging to Erasmus. Plus we saw the huge clock contraption with a crowned head whose eyes and tongue moved with the seconds. We walked over to the Münster which was supposed to be open 13:00-17:00. It was only 16:00, but all the doors were locked. We headed to Marktplatz/Market Square to be overwhelmed by the bright red Rathaus/City Hall, with painted frescoes, gilded towers, and wrought-iron gates.

Rathaus/City Hall

We caught the #4 tram back to the train station to catch the 17:18 train to Biel, arriving at 18:30. The sky was perfectly clear!

Monday, November 15, 1982

It snowed and hailed a little this morning. We heard it was so clear in Biel yesterday, they had the most fantastic view of the Alps! C’est la vie!

Tuesday, November 16, 1982

First frost of the season.

I have had to change rooms, since they say they need my therapy room for patients’ beds. Now my therapy room is on the administration floor with the director, secretaries, bookkeeper, billing office, etc. Should be interesting!