Lugano (10/2-3/1982)

Saturday, October 2, 1982

I was still congested, so decided not to take a day trip today. Went downtown to buy film and Loeb was sold out. Bought the last three rolls from ABM, the second-cheapest place. Jelmoli had a Langlauf/cross country ski track set up outside. You could suit up with shoes, skis and poles, and be timed racing around the strange-looking track of bristled grids. The timing equipment was very official with a gate to start the timing and an electric eye at the end. One man tried it and kept slipping off the track and once he fell down. His timing was assuredly terrible, but they let him try again and he did much better.

I was home at 15:30 when there was a knock at the door. It was Jan who I expected to be on her way to Lugano at the start of Jan & Kirby’s two-week vacation. She invited me to go with them to Lugano, but I didn’t want to be a bother. So Kirby was sent up to convince me. I got ready while they went to buy gas coupons to use in Italy. We left at 16:00, after Jan called their hotel to confirm their room and ask if there was another for me. Since there was a wine festival, there were no more rooms, but they got the okay to have me share their room. We headed to Solothurn to get on the superhighway. In places like Luzern, you couldn’t see a thing because you were either in tunnels or in a below grade walled-in channel. I felt light-headed going through a long tunnel along the Vierwaldstättersee/Lake Lucerne because of the car exhaust. We entered the valley towards the Gotthard Tunnel and I saw the church at Wassen from yet another angle. We caught up to and passed a German train heading to Italy. Even though it was foggy, you could still see the tall mountains looming over us on both sides of the valley. We closed the windows well before we entered the 17 km/10.5 mile Gotthard Tunnel, so we didn’t notice the car exhaust. But it got hot and stuffy! On the other side were signs of construction of the Autobahn/autostrada with tunnel holes here and there. As we wound down into the valley, above us were the partially built bridges of the future highway. They first built the tall, tall bridge abutments, then from those they built the roadway out from each to meet in midair!

We were in a line of cars, but the traffic was heavier in the other direction. We arrived in Lugano at 20:00 and Jan was able to direct us to the Albergo Garni Astro. We ended up parking next to the hotel in a business area, but because the next day was Sunday, it was okay. Jan walked up the stairs and met the landlady while Kirby and I tried using the elevator. The door wouldn’t close, so I got out to shut Kirby in and walked up the stairs. We all ended up on the top floor where we were let in to what looked like a private apartment. There was a lobby with a telephone with a lock and someone’s private address book. The door to the right was locked and our room was to the left. There was a shared bathroom at the front. We dropped off our things and went to dinner at Mövenpick al Ciani. I had tagliatelle alla carbonara, and Jan & Kirby each had do-it-yourself salads and shared a tagliatelle alla carbonara. Then Jan had something like a rabbit paté with port jelly and a bun, and Kirby had grilled salmon and French fries. We shared a bottle of Sauser; like grape juice starting to fizz. Kirby finished with ice cream and coffee, while Jan and I decided to wait. Somewhere along the line, friction developed between us and the waiter. I’m not sure how it started, but when it came time to pay, Kirby gave almost the exact amount and demanded the 10 Rappel/5 cents in change. The waiter was disgusted. Jan questioned some things on the bill and was apparently satisfied with the answer. I was just tongue-tied and couldn’t even get into speaking Italian.

We returned to the hotel where Kirby was going to start sleeping off exhaustion from the Kindergarten Lager/camp. Jan and I went back out for a walk, going down to the lakefront. We passed a bar where some old men called out to us, saying they liked the one with the “cappuccino”/hood; Jan was wearing a hooded sweatshirt. The lakefront had shade trees and benches, and 5-6 water spouts lighted up in different colors. Colored lights were strung in the trees and all around a stage where a band was playing. We headed up Via Nassa with its arcaded shops (not as old as Bern but just as neat!) to a square with a large building facing it. I was admiring the stone frames around the windows when Jan said to note the painted façade. Then I noticed the frames were painted on! We went down a tiny alley, passing a cheese shop on the corner. I peeked in the window and was overwhelmed by the ripe cheese aroma. Across the way was a salami shop with giant salamis strung along the arcade arch. We wondered if they were real and that no one had stolen one. We arrived at Piazza della Riforma with a stage in the middle. Medieval-looking flag bearers were waving their colorful flags in patterns in front of a large audience. In a neighboring square past an import gift shop was a band playing to tables full of beer drinkers. One table had all the occupants standing on the benches and swaying to the music. As we walked past a park, a couple asked if the lake was ahead, and it took me a full minute to get out the “si” from behind the “yes,” ja,” and oui.” We decided to get ice cream, but not at the same Mövenpick with the disgruntled waiter. We went to one closer to the hotel, and Jan also had a Café HAG/decaffeinated coffee. It took forever to get someone to take the money for the bill, so it was midnight before we returned to the hotel. The landlady had brought a mattress for me to use, and I also had one of Jan & Kirby’s sleeping bags.

Sunday, October 3, 1982

We had breakfast of rolls and butter, and I had hot chocolate. When paying the hotel bill, we were charged only the usual price for a double of 62 CHF/$31, not anything additional for the mattress and extra breakfast. I gave Jan & Kirby 20 CHF/$10 for the room and gas.

We had a Wine Festival program and city map to figure out where the artisan craft market was being held.

Wine Festival Program 1 & 4

Wine Festival Program 2 & 3

There was a fence stretched across the street of the hotel, and a man said he couldn’t let us through but to go around and ask his colleague. We took a back street to the main road where I asked how we could get to the artisan market. I was told we would have to pay go to the square and to see the market. We didn’t want to pay the 8 CHF/$4 fee, but decided to walk around to see if we could get closer. We found out the squares were outside the fence, as well as the market, so I was given the wrong info all around. We passed a café that displayed a giant bunch of grapes made with purple balloons. In Piazza della Riforma, they were setting up for a concert.

Piazza della Riforma

In Piazzetta Maraini there were booths selling all kinds of things from food, knitted items, antiques, pottery, hand-printed stationery, wooden items, etc. We continued down Via Nassa until the booths petered out. We walked back past the salami shop where a burglar alarm was ringing while an employee was re-arranging the hanging sausages. That’s why none are stolen!

Butcher and salami shop on Via Pessina

There were more booths in Piazza Cioccaro with artisans at work carving stone, caning chairs, spinning wool, etc. Huge pots of polenta were being stirred. Each pot had a built-in space for a fire underneath and a chimney.

Pot of polenta

One pot was full of strange looking stuff, tripe and carrots among them. A band was setting up in this square as well. Crowds of people and tourists. Jan & Kirby bought a miniature caned chair. Back at Piazza della Riforma, we parted company. Jan & Kirby returned to their car to head for the south of Italy. I stayed a few minutes in the Piazza to listen to the concert, then headed back to Piazza Cioccaro and beyond to the funicular station to climb the cobblestoned street up to Catedrale di San Lorenzo/Cathedral of St Lawrence, a simple stone affair. The three stone doorways were intricately carved and mostly covered by a protective but ugly screen.

Catedrale di San Lorenzo portal

Catedrale di San Lorenzo bell tower

I didn’t explore inside the cathedral because a Mass was in progress, but did see that it looked like a Renaissance attic. Outside I had a hazy view down on the Lugano rooftops and across the lake to Monte Bré.

View towards Monte Bré

I followed the funicular partway up the hill, but then it went underground. I found my way up to the train station to check the schedule. I returned back past the cathedral and down the cobblestoned street where an old lady asked me in Italian, where the lake was. Now I could respond more smoothly. I walked past the bottom of the funicular, past the painted trompe l’oeil façade building and back to Piazza della Riforma to hear the end of the concert.

Funicolare/Funicular Lugano Stazione

Piazza Cioccaro trompe l’oeil façade

Via Nassa

I walked back along Via Nassa and bought some hand-printed stationery. I noticed a man with a beard and khaki bag was more or less following me by leap-frogging. At the Chiesa Maria degli Angeli/Church of Mary of the Angels, the church was closed and the street was closed off. People were starting to gather on the stairs next to the funicular to peek into the barricaded parade route. I decided not to take the funicular, but headed up the stairs. As I passed the bearded guy, he said “Buon giorno.” I ignored him and hurried up the stairs. I slowed down when I reached an English-speaking couple, in case I needed them for “company.” But when I looked back the bearded fellow was gone. I hurried up the stairs in case he was taking the funicular, and at the top turned south to follow the main streets and signs to the San Salvatore funicular. Passed the Angioli funicular.

Funicolare/Funicular degli Angioli

At the Paradiso funicular station I bought a half-price ticket for 4 CHF/$2 and took the 12:30 funicular with a crowd of people. We went 5 minutes uphill past hotels and residences, crossing over the railroad. We had to transfer to another funicular to take us up through the woods to the top of San Salvatore, where there was the obligatory restaurant. A path took you farther to a viewpoint looking down on Lago/Lake Lugano. You could barely see the city because of rock outcroppings, but you could see Monte Bré and across the lake you could see Monte Generoso.

View towards Monte Bré

View towards Monte Generoso

The lake was cut in half by a causeway for the railroad and highway. On the south side the lake seemed to be split by a peninsula. Although the other side of Monte Generoso is Italy, it was too hazy to really claim you could see Italy, nor to see the Alps. At the viewpoint there was an old chapel where you could get a view from the roof. Inside was a simple altar and pews. I caught the 13:00 funicular and found a space to stand among rowdy middle-aged Germans. After the switch of trains, we arrived at the bottom and I headed to the lakeshore. I paid the 8 CHF/$4 to enter the parade area and walked along a street of palm trees and along the promenade.

Parade ticket

Saw a hazy but typical view back at San Salvatore.

View towards San Salvatore

A young girl asked me in Swiss-German when the parade was to begin. I told her automatically in Swiss-German (“halbi dru”). There were people selling official programs and giving away Parisienne cigarette. A couple of Parisienne cars decorated with flowers drove along the parade route to announce when it would start. I followed the parade route to Parco Civico/Civic Park, which was completely blocked off but appeared to be a beautiful shady spot. Since I wanted to get home at a decent hour, I headed to the train station, walking against the current of the crowds headed to the parade.

Train day pass

Caught the 14:43 train to Zürich and changed to the 18:04 train to Biel. A rowdy bunch of hikers boarded the train and started talking to fellow passengers. They spoke much too quickly for me to completely understand, but I did understood one guy was angry because I wasn’t laughing at his jokes. I was referred to as an iceberg. I pulled out my Newsweek magazine to show that I didn’t necessarily speak their language and they seemed to realize I couldn’t understand them. The man sitting next to me was then very polite. Arrived in Biel at 19:30.