Wednesday, December 23,
1981
Tom was off to work by
7:30. Dot had a phone call from Evonna who wanted to take us touring again, but
had to go to the dentist.
Dot and I went to try and take a picture of the fish
stall we saw between the tram stop and the apartment, but it wasn’t there today. The pigs’ heads in the windows of the butcher shop were still there! There
was a snack bar at the tram stop that sold párek
v rohlíku/sausage in a bun, the Czech hot dog.
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| Tram ticket |
We boarded a tram in Družby náměstí/Friendship
Square, and stood because we were going only a few stops. Passed a fruit stand
that had a long line of customers. We traveled along the wide Jugoslávských partyzánů/Yugoslav Partisans Boulevard. When the tram
turned onto Obránců míru/Defenders of
Peace Street, we got off. Backtracked on Obránců
míru and turned left on Tychnova where we passed a fenced-in complex
guarded by soldiers. I teased that I should take a photograph, and Dot said not
when these two guys were watching. Then I saw the two uniformed men sitting in
a small car across the street. A bit further there was a soldier sitting in a
jeep. It seemed too cold to be sitting in cars.
We
followed Mariánské hradby/Marian
fortification walls to the entrance of the castle. I though there was a soldier
guarding the castle, but the guy in the booth was controlling the traffic
signal! Dot said I should take my photo of the Katedrála svatého Víta/St Vitus Cathedral
from here, because when you get up close you can not see it in its entirety.
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Pražský Hrad/Prague Castle with
Katedrála svatého Víta/ St Vitus Cathedral spires |
She also pointed out the green gates used by Czech officials, since the castle
is still used for government purposes.
We crossed over a moat to a side entrance guarded by two Czech
soldiers. We could hear thumping noises, which meant we had missed the changing
of the guard where they hit the ground with the butt of their guns. We entered
a second courtyard where Dot took us out another side entrance past a
restaurant to Hradčanské náměstí/Castle Square that faces the official entrance
to the castle.
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| Pražský Hrad/Prague Castle main entrance |
The Swiss Embassy was located on this square. We went to one
side to see if we could see across the city, but it was too smoggy.
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| View from castle square |
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View of Kostel svatého Mikuláše Malá Strana/
St Nicholas Church of Lesser Town |
We entered the first courtyard of Pražský hrad/Prague Castle that had two tall thin conical flagpoles made of pine on each side of the gate to the second courtyard. The second courtyard had a Baroque fountain (work of stone-mason Francesco de Torre and sculptor Jeroným Kohl in 1686) and a wrought-iron grille covered well. We paid 2 CZK/20 cents to enter the Královská cesta/Chapel of the Holy Rood (built in 1758-63 by A. M. Lurago) which houses the treasures of St Vitus Cathedral, including reliquaries (lots of ulnae!).
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| Chapel of the Holy Rood ticket |
We paid 1 CZK/10 cents to listen to a tape describing the chapel. We were to see several of these tape stations in tall gunmetal boxes offering informaton in eight languages. There was a profusion of jewels that were guarded only by four old ladies.
After warming our toes, we went to the coldest place in Prague, the third courtyard of the castle. There you had to look straight up to see the façade of Katedrála svatého Víta, Václava a Vojtěcha/Cathedral of St Vitus, St Adalbert and St Wenceslas (founded in 1344, lots of stops and starts, finally finished in 1929). We entered the cathedral and right away it felt cooler. A chill draft seemed to arise from the floor. Checked out the Wenceslas Chapel that has his tomb in the center. The windows almost looked like they were painted over, but one of the 1 CZK tapes said it was the work of a modern artist. We paid 2 CZK/20 cents to enter the Royal Crypt.
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| St Vitus Crypt ticket |
It was not as cold here, where the Bohemian royalty were re-buried in the 1930s. The original marble mausoleum (built in 1571-89 by Dutch sculptor A. Collin) was back up in the cathedral along with the “Baroque bonanza of silver,” the tomb of St John of Nepomuk (created in 1733-36 by goldsmith J. Würth; at 20 tonnes it is allegedly the biggest silver object in the world), including velvet drapes held by flying cherubs.
Back outside we noted the asymmetry of the styles of stained glass windows. Around to the left of the cathedral we stopped at the popular Restaurant Vikárka. In the bar with tiny wooden tables and wooden stools, we ordered tea, and the waiter asked if we wanted cake. Since we hadn’t had lunch, we said yes. The tea came in glasses without handles and the cake was really a dessert; a green gelatin with layers of cookie-like pastry, cut in wedges. In the gelatin were canned apricots and grapes, and the whole thing was topped with whipped cream. Not what we expected, but tasty. The bill came to only 15.80 CZK/$1.50, but we left two dollar’s worth of korunas.
In the “fourth” courtyard of Pražský hrad/Prague Castle we saw the plain façade of the Klášter svatého Jiří/St George’s Convent housing the National Gallery’s Bohemian art next to the colorful Italianate/Romanesque? façade of Bazilika svatého Jiří/St George’s Basilica. St George’s was closed today.
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| Gothic building in St George's Square |
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| Bazilika svatého Jiří/St George’s Basilica |
Behind the castle we walked down the unique Zlatá ulička/Golden Lane; according to legend it is where alchemists worked and lived. The lane was a dead end with 11 houses painted in bright colors. Now they are souvenir shops or sell books or records. House number 22 is where writer Franz Kafka lived for a couple years.
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| Zlatá ulička/Golden Lane |
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| Zlatá ulička/Golden Lane |
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| Zlatá ulička/Golden Lane |
We returned to the other side of St Vitus Cathedral to pay 2 CZK/20 cents to enter the Starý královský palace/Old Royal Place.
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| Royal Palace ticket |
We had to be guided to the proper door to enter, and then needed help to open the ancient door. We were in the large empty Vladislav Hall (built 1493–1502 by Benedikt Rejt) where only one of three large chandeliers was lit. Apparently this is where coronations took place and it was big enough to host the jousting of knights. The next room was called the Diet, which was very dark and contained rows of benches upholstered in red. Behind the hall we could look down into the Chrám Všech svatých/All Saints Church.
We found a suite of rooms off to the right, which were the chancellor’s chambers with a porcelain furnace and a desk with two chairs. The 1 CZK tape told us two men were thrown from these windows! (1618 witnessed the beginning of the uprising to the Czech Estates when two governors and a scribe were thrown into the castle ditch from its window.) Through the window you could look down on the castle gardens.
We left the castle complex and walked down Slovenské národní povstání/Slavic Uprising Street. A young man walking ahead of us fell, picked himself up to walk another couple wobbly steps, then fell again. Apparently drunkards are common in Prague, but they cause no one else any problems. No one wants to call the police to help, since it might get the drunkard in trouble. So like the other gentleman in front of us, we walked past the fallen fellow.
Dot decided to take me through the shopping district on Dejvická. Passed a fish stall where a boy left with a flapping fish. It was 16:00 and already dark outside. We passed a crowded supermarket. There were very few fresh fruits; any citrus fruits would come from Cuba, the only citrus-growing nation friendly with the Communist bloc. One butcher’s shop had a whole pig in the window, with a red ribbon across its back (Christmas greetings?). The groceries generally were full of empty shelving, with an occasional can or two in plain paper wrapping. A souvenir shop had wooden products with etched designs. I saw a wooden clock with “Made in USSR” written on it. There was a line at the toy store where the window displayed a few cheap plastic objects.
There was a hustle and bustle of people on the street, but a noticeable lack of color. All the clothing was in grays and browns and blacks. Rarely did you see a young person dressed like a Westerner, and if you did, you figured she was a Westerner.
We had seen a small sample of quality products in the Tuzek store, but none of it would be available to a typical Czech person. Czechoslovakia exports all their top quality goods, and if a Czech wants Czech crystal, he has to go to Hungary or Yugoslavia where it is plentiful! It is no wonder that there is a black market. All the available local products are so cheap that no one buys it if they can help it. Yet, they will pay exorbitant prices for Western products, sight unseen! Tom mentioned that Czech employees at the Embassy are always asking to buy your radio or stereo, whether or not you were planning to sell. It is said that every Czech has plenty of money, they just don’t have anything to spend it on.
As we walked home, many street lights were still not on. That is common, and often traffic signals do not work in order to “save” electricity. We saw folks carrying home Christmas trees, and it looked like they were carrying a single branch!
We arrived at the apartment at 17:00 and had tea and cookies, including real chocolate chip cookies! When Tom came home, they had the letter ritual again. Normally the mail comes once a week, but because of the Christmas season, when a bag fills up, it is sent. Tom had his two half-liter bottles of beer. Czech beer is said to be the best in the world. The Czech Budvar beer is supposed to be the origin of Budweiser beer in the U.S. The Ls drink Plzeňský Prazdroj/Pilsner Urquell. I tried a sip, and I could tell it was somehow richer, but it still tasted like beer! There is a number on the label, 12 degrees, which refers to the density of the beer, and Czech beer is one of the densest. It is also supposed to be nutritious and aid in digestion. All non-beer drinkers should drink it with their meals!
We dressed up to go out to dinner at 19:30. Drove to an area below the castle with streets lined with old fashioned street lamps that were once gas-fueled. Valdštejnská gives the appearance of a street in the olden days. We arrived at Malostranské náměstí/Lesser Town Square and parked at St Nicholas Church. Across the street was the U Mecenáše/Patron Restaurant. The front window was barred with old black shutters on which was lettered the name of the restaurant. Next to the window were a pair of blackened wooden doors.
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| U Mecenáše/Patron Restaurant |
I wouldn’t have known it was a restaurant, whether it was open, nor where to enter. The black doors led to an alley from which there was a door to the restaurant. A man with a black tie greeted us at the door as we entered a room with cloth-covered wooden tables and chairs. Tom said “Good evening,” in English and indicated we had U.S. Embassy reservations. We were shown through a doorway covered by curtains into a room with a desk, a door to the kitchen, and a coat check. A young girl took our coats in return for a number (usually the coat check person is an old woman!).
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| Coat check number |
Do we pay a fee? (The
old lady coat checkers always make sure they get paid with an outstretched hand!)
The girl wasn’t looking for anything, so we continued through another curtained
doorway. Here was a wonderful little room, with tables covered with large white
linens and the chairs and settees upholstered in a rich brocade. The waiter in
black tie and jacket pulled out the table to allow Dot to sit on the settee and
I took a chair on one side. When the table was pushed in place, Tom sat
opposite Dot. The waiter indicated if my chair was too low I could have a
pillow. There was a fireplace, iron grillework on one wall, and a leaded window
made from round pieces of glass.
There was one
other party of eight in the restaurant. They seemed to be from the Canadian
Embassy. The Ls found they could easily tune out foreign conversations, but
on the rare occasions they heard English, their ears perked up to eavesdrop.
Tom ordered a
Moravian champagne, a local vintage they preferred over the Russian champagne
that was offered, as an apéritif. The Russian champagne was likely to be
very expensive.
The waiter then
asked what we would like for the hors d’oeuvre. His English was pretty good,
but his French was terrible! We were given three choices: Hungarian salami,
chicken ragù, or deep fried chicken. We each had a different appetizer. The slices
of salami covered a large plate and came with a couple pats of butter, which we
used with the bread sitting on a side table. We were all able to have some
salami which was very good. Tom started with the chicken ragù: shredded chicken
in a white sauce with a layer of melted cheese on top and I had the fried
chicken, which was tasty. Tom and I switched plates halfway through. The ragù
was the least favorite, but was still good. Our plates were cleared the moment
we were finished, even if others were still eating, a sign of good service.
They certainly were not rushing you, since you can stay as long as you like; they
have only one sitting at a meal in the restaurants.
Next came a plate
with sliced tomatoes with a mound of roughly grated cheese in the middle. It
was covered with a pale dressing with a hint of spice. This plate was put to
one side, so we would know it was a side dish! We were lucky to have a salad,
since it is not always available. The Ls have learned not to ask for salad, because
the waiters are embarrassed if they have none. There were salted almonds on the
table for us to nibble.
The waiter was
attentive to keeping the wine glasses filled. At one point Tom had asked for a
second bottle of the champagne. Later we wondered if the waiter had forgotten,
but then the waiter immediately came out with a bottle. That confirmed that our
conversation was being monitored! The Ls are always joking as if
their home and the places they reserve in the name of the US Embassy are being
bugged. They have been told to assume their apartment is bugged.
For our entrée we
also had three choices: Moussaka (the Greek eggplant dish), some meat covered
with ham and cooked in egg with a dash of garlic, and some chicken dish. Dot
chose the moussaka. I made the faux pas of asking which was the most typically
Czech dish. The waiter looked down his nose at me and stated they only offered “specialties.”
I was so embarrassed! Although the waiter was tactful, I felt bad that the
Ls were taking me to such a nice restaurant, and I probably was asking for
the equivalent of a hamburger? I chose the second dish because of the “dash of
garlic.” So did Tom.
The waiter dished
out Dot’s moussaka from a casserole, and Tom and I were given our mystery meat
dishes. It seemed to be pork which did indeed have a slice of ham and was
cooked in an omelette. I didn’t taste any garlic; it was really just a “dash.” It
was covered with strands of cheese that the Liens feared was sauerkraut, but it
was not. It came with peas and rice, plus a fried dumpling. It was a delicious
meal and we were given plenty of time to digest.
As the waiter
handed out desserts to the Canadians, we heard “Flambé” and eagerly awaited the
flames. But there were none. We were given the dessert choices of pancakes or
ice cream flambé. Dot passed on dessert, but Tom and I asked for the ice cream.
The waiter brought out a gas burner that he placed on the side table and
lighted. He had two servings of a square lump of vanilla ice cream with a bit
of chocolate in it, sitting on pineapple chunks with whipped cream and a maraschino
cherry on top. He poured a little orange liqueur on the plate, then went to
turn off the lights. He heated a spoon, filled the spoon with liqueur and put
it in the gas flame. It lit up with a pretty blue flame. He poured the burning
liqueur onto the dish, and the blue flames licked their way around the plate. I
was mesmerized by the dancing wreath of flames. When the flames finally died
out, they turned the lights back on. It was a nice little dessert. We were
served coffee, and I was warned to let it sit for a while, to allow the coffee
grounds to sink to the bottom, and don’t drink it to the last drop. I let the
coffee settle, then realized I wanted to stir in sugar. I had to let it settle
again. It tasted like an Italian espresso. Afterwards I noted there was a 1 cm
layer of silt at the bottom!
The waiter
cleared away the dishes and removed the side table. A glass plate of sugar
packets was on the edge of the table and fell, shattering the glass. The waiter
seemed devastated; whether because it marred the service that is so important
to them, or because he would have to pay to replace the plate. He disappeared
for a long time.
As we sat at the
table I heard a sound like creaking wood, and at first thought I was
unconsciously rubbing my boot against the table leg. But I kept perfectly still
and continued to hear the sound. The Ls thought it sounded like a recording
device gone haywire! They felt under the table and came out with black
fingertips!
All during the
meal there was recorded music, mostly old American songs. Later it sounded like
they played a BeeGees album, followed by Barbra Streisand.
The bill came
wrapped in a napkin, and from what I could tell, it was 300+ CZK. Tom left four-100 CZK bills/$40 total and a couple packs of cigarettes as a tip. The best tip
you can leave is a pack of Marlboro cigarettes! At Christmas, US Embassy staff
give their Czech employees bottles of Scotch or cartons of cigarettes.
Apparently these do not get smoked or drunk, but are passed along in a
continuous flow of favors. For instance, the waiter might give a pack to his
butcher for a better cut of meat. Then the butcher will give the same pack to a
taxi driver to get him to drive faster. Etc. The U.S. does not condone it, but
they know about the “bottle and carton” system.
We walked out to
the coat check and no one was there, so we had to retrieve our own coats. No
place to leave a tip. The host had to unlock the door to let us out of the
restaurant.
Back at the
apartment you could smell sauerkraut in the hallway, a typical Czech dish.
Tom wanted to open
Christmas presents! He had already opened a gift from his Czech secretary, a
nice Nativity set made with corn husks.
